Tuesday, July 29, 2008

Christian Dior


Christian Dior (January 21, 1905 – October 23, 1957), was an influential French fashion designer, probably best known as the founder of one of the world's top fashion houses Dior. He was born in Granville, Normandy, a seaside town off the coast of France. Dior flagship boutiques are found in Paris, Milan, Dubai, Rome, London, New York, Beverly Hills, Tokyo, Osaka, Hong Kong, Boston, Honolulu, San Francisco, São Paulo, Seoul, Madrid, Miami, Barcelona, New Delhi, and Shanghai.

Acceding to his parents' wishes, Dior attended the École des Sciences Politiques from 1920 to 1925. The family, whose fortune was derived from the manufacture of fertilizer, had hopes he would become a diplomat, but Dior only wished to be involved in the arts, mostly fashion, but sketching as well. To make money, he sold his fashion sketches on the streets for about 10 cents each. After leaving school he received money from his father so that in 1928 he could open a small art gallery, where he sold art by the likes of Pablo Picasso and Max Jacob. After a family financial disaster that resulted in his father losing his business, Dior was forced to close the gallery. From 1938 he worked with Robert Piguet and later joined the fashion house where he and Pierre Balmain were the primary designers. In 1945 he went into business for himself, backed by Marcel Boussac, the cotton-fabric magnate.

The actual name of the line was Corolle (roughly petal in French), but the phrase New Look was coined for it by Carmel Snow, the editor-in-chief of Harper's Bazaar. Dior's designs were more voluptuous than the boxy, fabric-conserving shapes of the recent World War II styles, influenced by the rations on fabric. He was a master at creating shapes and silhouettes; Dior is quoted as saying "I have designed flower women." His look employed fabrics lined predominantly with percale, boned, bustier-style bodices, hip padding, wasp-waisted corsets and petticoats that made his dresses flare out from the waist, giving his models a very curvaceous form. The hem of the skirt was very flattering on the calves and ankles, creating a beautiful silhouette. Initially, women protested because his designs covered up their legs, which they had been unused to because of the previous limitations on fabric. There was also some backlash to Dior's designs form due to the amount of fabrics used in a single dress or suit--during one photo shoot in a Paris market, the models were attacked by female vendors over the profligacy of their dresses--but opposition ceased as the wartime shortages ended. The New Look revolutionized women's dress and reestablished Paris as the center of the fashion world after World War II.

Dior died at the health spa town Montecatini, Italy. Some reports say that he died of a heart attack after choking on a fish bone. Time magazine's obituary stated that he died of a heart attack after playing a game of cards. However, the Paris socialite and Dior acquaintance Alexis von Rosenberg, Baron de Rédé stated in his memoirs that contemporary rumor had it that the fashion designer succumbed to a heart attack after a strenuous sexual encounter.

As Cathy Horyn wrote in The New York Times about the designer, "Many men had slept with Dior, but few had wanted to become his lover." Horyn quotes Francine du Plessix Gray as saying that "there is the myth that his boyfriends only slept once with Dior because he was plain and not that sexually appealing." His companion at the time of his death was the Algerian-born singer Jacques Benita (born 1930). In the early 1950s his companion was Jacques Tiffeau (1929-1988), a hustler who eventually became a fashion designer and winner of a Coty Award in 1960.

Tuesday, July 22, 2008

La Maison du Chocolat


Chocolatiers

by Celia Cheng

Pascal le Gac, creator at La Maison du Chocolat met Robert Linxe, the founder, 25 years ago. It was a common passion that linked the two men to forge a great partnership. Together, they created the “artisanal” chocolate.

Pascal is a perfect gentleman who knows and loves his art. I was honored to have a private chocolate tasting with him. When he speaks, he does so with the utmost politeness, but when he talks about chocolate, voilà, he is firm and determined. He is committed to explaining why his chocolates are so exquisite. The real art of making great chocolates is in research and experimentation. Pascal is driven by sensations. In everyday life, we are always experiencing a wide range of different sensations. In chocolates, we can also experience vast differences. The taste sensations he identifies (the zing of lemon and chocolate or the strange bite of fennel and chocolate are what inspire him to continuously make delicious, high-quality chocolates. La Maison du Chocolat’s success is recognized by its peers in the industry and they are always referenced as the benchmark for excellence in chocolate making.

The different flavored bonbons all have a smooth, refined consistency that is unmistakably their signature. When you bite into the chocolate, the ganache gently glides on the tongue. Blending a consistent cream base with different ganache blends maintains this silky smooth consistency. The blending of different ganaches creates a unique chocolate base for each bonbon. The ganache mixture is made to balance the flavor that is infused in the chocolate. For example, lemon has high acidity, so the ganache blend made for the lemon bonbon has lower acidity to balance taste. It’s the assemblage of the chocolate and flavors that makes the house style of La Maison du Chocolat.

What this mixing and balancing achieves is a surprisingly sensational experiences for the palette, one that I never imagined possible. Each chocolate delivers a unique experience; there is always a nose and a finish, much like the experience of wine tasting. For example, in tasting the rum raisin bonbon, one tastes the rum first, then the floral flavor of the raisin; when you bite into the fennel bonbon, you don’t immediately taste the fennel, but then it hits, not too strongly, but just enough to give the hint of fennel, then the taste fades, slowly, lingering long enough to jog the memory.

At La Maison du Chocolat chocolate is their real focus. Pascal continues to innovate and experiment with different ingredients, but he doesn’t go crazy with mixing too many flavors in a single ganache. More than two infusions per chocolate is when you start to lose the true essence of chocolate. Chocolate has its own taste and properties and La Maison du Chocolat does not want to lose sight of that.

I am delighted that I had the opportunity to meet a true master; an artisan who is every bit as endearing as his magnificent creations.

Friday, July 18, 2008


French Women Don't Get Fat

The Secret of Eating for Pleasure

by Mireille Guiliano

Stylish, convincing, wise, funny and just in time: the ultimate non-diet book, which could radically change the way you think and live.

French women don't get fat, but they do eat bread and pastry, drink wine, and regularly enjoy three-course meals. In her delightful tale, Mireille Guiliano unlocks the simple secrets of this "French paradox" -– how to enjoy food and stay slim and healthy. Hers is a charming, sensible, and powerfully life-affirming view of health and eating for our times.

As a typically slender French girl, Mireille went to America as an exchange student and came back fat. That shock sent her into an adolescent tailspin, until her kindly family physician, "Dr. Miracle," came to the rescue. Reintroducing her to classic principles of French gastronomy plus time-honored secrets of the local women, he helped her restore her shape and gave her a whole new understanding of food, drink, and life. The key? Not guilt or deprivation but learning to get the most from the things you most enjoy. Following her own version of this traditional wisdom, she has ever since relished a life of indulgence without bulge, satisfying yen without yo-yo on three meals a day.

Now in simple but potent strategies and dozens of recipes you'd swear were fattening, Mireille reveals the ingredients for a lifetime of weight control–from the emergency weekend remedy of Magical Leek Soup to everyday tricks like fooling yourself into contentment and painless new physical exertions to save you from the StairMaster. Emphasizing the virtues of freshness, variety, balance, and always pleasure, Mireille shows how virtually anyone can learn to eat, drink, and move like a French woman.